Sailing Calista22 June 2022 – 7 July 2022
With a good weather window and moderate winds we left Monemvaisia around mid day to head up to the Argolic Gulf region. The wind was coming from the south/south east and with both sails furled out we were getting along nicely at approx 6 knots with wind speed of around 16 knots.
We arrived in Porto Cheli, a summer resort town at 7.00pm and anchored in 5.5 metres. It was an enormous bay, with all three sides protected from most winds.
The following morning we lowered the dingy and went for a bit of a dicky tour around the harbour, then dingied into the town quay where we tied up the dingy and explored on foot around the town.
We were very impressed with the anchorage and township. There are ferry connections to some of the neighbouring islands as well as numerous restaurants, a good chandlery shop, several bakery stores and three large supermarkets that were well stocked with produce and fresh vegetables.
The Greek Orthodox Church was situated on prime land with panoramic views out over the harbour.
The nights were balmy and sunsets were beautiful.
After a few days enjoying Porto Cheli and relaxing on Calista, it was time to lift the anchor and head up to Napflio. With no wind we motored all the way and taking advantage of making water at the same time.
We had a lovely relaxed trip up to Naflio but as we approached the inner harbour it was rather gusty. We dropped anchor out in the bay and sat for awhile hoping that the breeze would drop sufficiently so that we could manouvere onto the Town Quay. While we were waiting, Paul decided to dingy ashore to check out the town quay. Speaking to several boaties they offered to assist us with our dock lines.
The guys that helped with our lines were wonderful and it wasn’t long before we were securely tied up to the bollards. We had a prime spot which was very central to the township and had wonderful views of the Fortresss of Palamidi. As soon as we were settled, we wandered up through the back streets and found “Mezedes Tavern Noulis”, a restaurant that was highly recommended in the reviews of Naflio. We weren’t disappointed and enjoyed a lovely meal sitting outdoors in the narrow cobbled laneway.
We arose to a beautiful morning without a cloud in the sky, and shortly after breakfast we set off on foot to find the path up to the castle.
Walking in the general direction, we found the sign post and proceeded to climb the steps up to the Fortresss of Palamidi.
We chose to climb the steps in the morning while the steps were mostly in shade and before the sun rose higher in the sky.
We made it to the entrance, the walk up was rewarded by beautiful views of the bay below.
The castle was built by the Venetians between 1711-1714, and is situated at 216m on the crest of the hill with panoramic views.
From 1840 Palamidi was used as a prison for around one hundred years and in conjunction with this, the stairs up to the castle were built by the prisioners.
The Saint Andrew Holy Orthodox Church
After having a good look around and venturing out into the vast castle grounds, we descended back down in town and found a lovely spot to have a refreshing drink and some lunch at one of restaurants along the water front.
It was certainly a pretty town with palm trees lining the sides of the road and promenade.
After lunch we walked to the far end of town and decided to continue on around the headland.
To walk around the headland is about a 45 minute walk on a nice wide paved walkway. As usual we encountered many friendy stray cats along the way. There were also lots of cacti plants growing up the sides of the cliffs.
Around the far side the paved walkway was cut in and tunneled under the massive rock.
From the town quay we were treated to a gorgeous sunset in the evening.
After several days in Napflio, it was time to head down to Kilada where we were having our engine serviced. Every 100 -150 hours, the motor needs to be serviced by an authorised Volvo Penta dealer while the motor is still under warranty.
We arrived in Kilada and anchored in the bay until the Boat Yard called us up on the VHF to come in. We eventually got the call and we motored into the travel lift bay and collected the service people from Ermioni Marine who were patiently waiting. We then motored back out into the bay and dropped anchor while the crew carried out the necessary service. We also got them to service the genset.
We were very impressed with the crew who were husband and wife, and their mechanic. All of them spoke pretty good English and nothing was a problem to them. We dropped them back to the travel lift area afterwards and they also took the dingy outboard away with them for servicing.
While we waited for the dingy motor to be returned a few days later, we stayed on board Calista carrying out a few jobs and relaxing.
One day there was not much wind, and Paul took advantage of the calm conditions in the anchorage and rowed us to shore in the dingy. It was siesta time and the village was very quite with hardly a sole about.
Once we got the dingy motor back from having been serviced, we left Kilada in the afternoon and motored on down to Porto Cheli to spend a few more days there.
It was lovely to be back in the lovely calm anchorage.
We dined at “Ostria”, a restaurant situated right on the water’s edge overlooking the anchorage.
Paul had a fillet steak while I had a lamb shank. Both were delicious meals.
At night time the town of Porto Cheli was a blaze of neon lights, very pretty.
The temperature was 33 degrees and so we left the anchorage for a few hours and headed a short distance over to Zogiormia Bay on Spetses Island where we spent several hours swimming in the beautiful clear blue waters before heading back to the anchorage at Porto Cheli.
We spent several days in the anchorage. There were some strong Meltemi winds coming down from the North and so the anchorage filled up with those seeking some refuge from the forcast strong winds. Paul counted at least 100 boats one day and yet there was still plenty of room in the anchorage.
One afternoon we dinged into the marina and made ourselves known to another NZ couple from Auckland who were also friends of friends of ours. Later that evening we all arranged to meet back on Mistik for drinks then we all walked into town for dinner. It was a lovely evening.
With the weather now more settled again, we left the anchorage to head north up and around to Ermioni.
The town quay was very congested with charter boats arriving and jostling for a spot along the quay. We decided to avoid the mayhem and anchored just abit further along in South Bay which was still close by enough to dingy into the township.
We noticed our friends from Grace were also in the anchorage. We arranged to go ashore for some sundowners at one the bars nearby, then afterwards we all wandered along the water front to a restaurant for dinner.
It was a stunning day and not much wind for the boats. Those charter boats heading out were having to motor.
We took the long way, walking around the headland in amongst the pine trees.
When we arrived in the town centre we found the taxi stand and caught a taxi up to Kranidi as we needed to buy another data sim card. The town was located up in the hills, about a 15 minute taxi ride. The taxi driver dropped us outside the Cosmote store where we bought another data sim card for the router on Calista. The driver was content to sit in the sun and have a coffee while he waited for us.
Once back onboard Callista we departed Ermioni and set sail over to Dokos Island.
