Sailing Calista10 May 2022 – 20 May 2022
Around 10.00 am we slipped the dock lines and slowly motored out of Marina di Ragusa leaving behind wonderful memories spent in Sicily over the winter season. We waved goodbyes to our friends Arnis and Jane from Traveller IV, another Amel 50 whom we had met over the winter. The skies were cloudy and it looked as though there was rain threatening for late morning.
We were escourted out of the marina channel by one of the marineros to ensure we stayed on course and not veer into the shallow waters. The sand bank moves from time to time and some yachts have run aground briefly. The marineros were very professional and helpful and only too willing to assist anyone that is arriving or departing.
Once we were safetly out of the entrance and turned towards the direction of Malta, there wasn’t alot of wind and the little bit there was, was on the nose. We set a direct course straight to Malta so that we would arrive late afternoon and so we mostly motor sailed the whole way. It was strange being back out on the water and with a gentle side swell we soon found our sea legs.
The passage was pleasant and there were no other yachts. We passed an oil platfrom some distance away.
As soon as we approached Malta’s 12 mile zone Paul took down Italian courtsey flag which was had lost much of it’s colour and was fraying around the edges, and hoisted the Maltese Courtsey flag.
Leaving Sicily behind and the closer we got to Malta we noticed the air temperature was much warmer. The Island of Malta is about 27km long by 14.5 km. Malta gained independence from Britain to become a republic in 1964.
We radioed ahead to the Port Office in the Grand Harbour to see if we could anchor in Rinella Bay for the evening but were denied entry due to it being a Commerical Harbour, and we were advised to anchor around in Marsamxett Harbour.
Much of the harbour is occupied by numerous marinas and bouys with very little room left for anchoring. We eventually found a small area where there were ywo other yachts anchored and we dropped in behind them. Despite being directly in front of the main entrance the anchorage was very protected and calm. We enjoyed our first night, we constantly had changing views as we swung around on the anchor.
Across from the anchorage we spotted the hotel which we had earlier made enquiries to stay while our yacht was being lifted out. There wasn’t much accommodation available for the period we were enquiring for, and the cost of the hotel room with a view over the bay was 400.00 euros per night. Rather rich, and well beyond our budget. Luckily, Yacht Lift Malta advised that we were able to stay onboard Calista while the antifouling etc was being done and so we would not require a hotel room afterall.
A couple of days later when we were scheduled to be lifted, we motored a short distance from our anchorage around the bend to Yacht Lift Malta.
Paul manouvered Calista into the lifting pontoon and once we were secure between the two upright pontoons, the lifting proceedure began where the water was discharged alternatively out of the four chambers in a controlled manner. It sounded rather amazing.
Slowly the platform and Calista rose out of the water. The vertical red ladder is what we would use to climb up and down.
From our resting position we had a bird’s eye view over the marina. Yacht Lift Malta is monitored 24/7 with one of the guys permanently in the office keeping an eye on the monitors. He would have a mattress on the floor where he would sleep. We felt very secure.
From the stern of Calista we were able to watch other boaties come and go from their berths. We had a fellow Amelian on a 54 Amel (Stella) cruise past and later sent us a message complimenting us on a nice boat. They were only in the marina for one night so we never got chance to catch up.
From our Port side we had views out along the main channel and across to Valletta. One night at around 11.00pm we were treated to a fire work’s display above Valletta which lasted for around 15 minutes. It woke us up with the deafning explosions, not sure what the fire works were celebrating.
We arranged to meet up with friends Bob and Bozena for dinner one evening as they were staying in a marina around the other side of Manoel Island having some work done on their yacht. We had met them in Marina di Ragusa over the winter. The restaurant Mamma Mia was not far from us and so we went by dingy.
It was a lovely evening and we all enjoyed scrumptious melt in the mouth BBQ ribs and a few wines.
The keel was well supported on timber bearers.
Closer inspection revealed the hull growth. It wasn’t too bad considering the last lift and wash was done over a year ago in April 2021.
The prop and shaft was in need of a good clean as it previously hadn’t had any antifoul applied. We decided this time we would get Prop Speed antifoul applied.
With Calista now being two years old, we decided to give her a birthday and get the topsides of the hull polished whilst she was out of the water.
The hull was now looking new again with it’s new “Sea Jet” antifoul and the prop and shaft with “Prop Speed” applied.
One day while Calista was being worked on we caught the bus up to Valletta. There were so many people about and trying to take photos we needed to wait for a gap. Something we hadn’t needed to do over the past two years due to Covid and people not travelling.
Where’s Paul? Once we entered through the main gate entrance people dispursed in various directions and it was pleasant to wander around at our leisure without the crowds.
We were not long through the entrance when a large motorcade of Police bikes and black vehicles arrived. It turns out that the President of Ireland and his wife were in town and were visiting the Upper Barrakka Gardens with his entourage.
The temperature was a rather warm 32 degrees celcius. Tucked down a narrow street with buildings on either side casting some shade we found a lovely restaurant called “Trabuxu” where we stopped for lunch.
Paul had quail and I played safe and went with the of veal chop accompanied with vegetables and a glass of local white wine.
After lunch we took a walk around the Upper Barrakka Gardens which were very pretty with the stone arches, trees and colourful annuals in the gardens. There were plenty of seats around the gardens for people to stop and admire the gardens and view.
One of the eight replica cannons is fired at noon and 4.00pm every day.
Some of the houses had amazing views down over the harbour.
From the walls of the old Fort we could see Calista sitting at Yacht Lift Malta to the left across the water.
Looking out across to Gzira, Fort Manoel and the modern town of Sliema where there were a number of cranes on the various apartment construction sites.
Down on the lower Barrakka Gardens there was the Malta Seige Bell War Memorial.
The 50 metres high Seige Bell War Memorial was unveiled by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II in May 1992 on the 50th Anniversary of the Siege of Malta to commerate all those who died between 1940 and 1943.
From the memorial there was a sculpture of a 6 metre bronze soldier lying on a catafalque facing Grand Harbour. Symbolishing the 7,000 people who lost their lives during the second World War.
The Monument was built in 1820 as a memorial to Sir Alexander Ball, a British Admiral who was the first Civil Commissioner of Malta.
The roads from the main centre were steep and led down to the waterfront.
The original Maltese Balconies were first built in traditional open stone. However sometime in the 1670’s the balconies were enclosed with wooden windows. This was done to allow the Grand Master of the residence to look out of the balcony and spy on people.
Some of the balconies were in need of some restoration and paint.
More colourful wooden balconies
Palazzo Ferreria, the Palace was built in the late 19th century with the typical timber Maltese balconies.
Next day we dingied down the fairway from Yacht Lift Malta to a lovely restaurant “Ona Blue” and had a scrumptious lunch. I enjoyed swordfish and Paul had a steak.
At the end of the marina fairway was the Catholic Church built around 1889.
One afternoon, we headed back up to Valletta and caught the Hop On, Hop Off bus to see some more areas of the eastern part of the island. As it was the last bus of the day the driver was stopping at the various spots to pick up passengers only, and we had to stay on the bus. We sat up on the open top to enjoy the breeze and admire the views along route.
On the bus we drove around to the other side of Grand Harbour where there was another large marina.
A very popular holiday destination, St Julians on the north side with heaps of apartments and new ones under construction.
After Calista was lowered back in the water we headed west along the northern coast of Malta and anchored in “Bugibba Perched Bay”, a lovely anchorage in St Paul’s Bay. We stayed two days and went ashore for dinner both evenings.
We also stocked up on provisions again after having to empty the fridge and freezer prior to being lifted as they are water cooled.
Landing the dingy was difficult as the coastline was quite rocky. Luckily, the guys from the local Dive School kindly let us tie the dingy up on their floating pontoon while we went ashore. Provisioning was relatively easy with a very good supermarket just five minutes away on foot. In appreciation we gave the guys some beers and they were most grateful.
One evening after checking reviews of the various restaurants we went ashore to “Nine Lives” where we were able to keep an eye on the dingy nearby and also Calista out in the bay. The hazelnut colada’s cocktail were absolutely delicious.
We also enjoyed a selection of lovely fresh sushi and sashimi.
We stayed until sunset and watched the sun go down on another day then made our way back to Calista.
After leaving St Paul’s’ Bay we motored down to Comino Island and anchored near Crystal Lagoon for the night. The colour of the water was turquoise closer in where it was shallow and a lovely deep aqua blue further out where we were anchored. The water was clear and a delight to swim in.
During the day the anchorage was very busy with the coming and going of tour and day boats visiting the sea caves.
We explored the caves ourselves in our dingy.
Around on the other side of our anchorage was the Blue Lagoon so we dingied the short distance around to check it out.
It was crowded with ferries and tour boats. The Police Enforcement boat was cruising around the bay and we got stopped as we went past. Apparently they were checking registration on small pleasure craft, as soon as they realised we were from NZ and we are covered by different rules, (our dingy is marked T/T Calista) and does not require separate registration, they happily waved us on our way.
The next day we made our way around the south coast of nearby Gozo Island. We stopped off for morning tea in Dwejra Bay. There was a narrow entrance that we passed through to the lovely semi enclosed lagoon where we dropped the anchor for morning tea. After an hour or so, the wind changed direction and the swell started to roll in and become slightly uncomfortable. We up anchored and started to make our way back around to St Paul’s Bay where we were going to stop for another couple of days before departing for Greece.
After arriving back in St Paul’s Bay the conditions at the anchorage were not really suitable to stay overnight so we decided to head off after dinner on a two night passage to Greece as the weather was looking very favourable for the crossing.
