Sailing Calista1 August 2023 – 14 August 2023
Leaving the anchorage on Komi Island Paul had set up the downwind sail in anticipation that we would have a lovely downwind sail to the bottom end of Samos. Our friends on Tipheret had left before us and they decided to head further east to Kokkari harbour instead. We ended up on a port tack and weren’t able to use the downwind sail after all, and as the wind picked up we had to stop, turn downwind and take down the downwind sail as it was starting to unfurl towards the top of the sail and we were worried it may unfurl further and get damaged.
Crossing over from Chios Island we had a lovely brisk sail, and after a seven hour passage, we anchored in Kokkari harbour. Tipheret managed to tuck into the western side of the harbour behind the sea wall. As there wasn’t enough room for us also we found a sandy patch to anchor in a little further out in the bay and we were more exposed to some sea swell rolling in but nothing too bad.
Kokkari looked familiar and we realised that we had visited Kokkari by car last season and thought at the time it looked a lovely place, never dreaming that we would actually anchor in the small harbour there. It is normally very exposed to the prevailing north winds however it remained reasonably calm for the few days we were there.
We went ashore and pulled the dingy up onto the beach and walked up and over into where all the restaurants were situated.
There were so many restaurants and we were spoilt for choice.
We stopped at the Wave Cafe Bar and had a pre-dinner cocktail.
Sabine and Uli had hired a car for a couple of days to check out some houses for sale that they wanted to view. So the following morning, we went along with them for the ride. From the main road turnoff it was approx 4km of uphill and winding road until we reached the small mountain village of Ampelos on the northern side of the island. There are less than 400 permanent residents in the village.
Uli and Sabine were thinking of purchasing a house where they could have as a base over the winter months when they weren’t sailing. We checked a couple of houses in the village and spoke to some locals who said the winters were very wet, humid and cold and that most people only come here for the summer months.
The main entrance was around on the otherside, on the upper level. The house was very small and still needed alot of work to be done.
While looking around the village one of the residents told of another house that was for sale. The second house was much larger and very private with amazing views, but was in need of much more work.
We visited the local taverna afterwards and discussed the pros and cons of the two properties over a drink. The following day we went back to the second house for a viewing with the existing owners and were able to get a look around inside and better see the extent of repairs needed.
Now it is up to Uli and Sabine to decide if they want to purchase a house on a remote island and take on all the work required…
Afterwards we drove into Vathy, where we went to the Post Office and paid some more tepai for the months of August and September. 125.00 euro per month. While we were in town we watched a fire fighting helicopter hover above the harbour and suck up water and dispurse the water on a fire in the hills nearby. After a dozen or so trips it appeared that the fire had been doused.
One morning while it was still Paul put the drone up and took a few shots over the harbour.
We enjoyed our time in Kokkari and dined in several of the many tavernas.
There was the usual touristy shops in the cobbled laneways that were behind the tavernas. I couldn’t resist and bought myself a new sundress.
At one of the taverna’s we enjoyed a watermelon salad – grilled halmoni cheese, rocket and balsamic glaze. Delicious.
One evening Paul decide to turn on the speader lights before going to shore. Calista was certainly the centre of attention, you couldn’t help but notice her glowing in the anchorage.
The water was clear in the harbour, and with the temperature up in the mid 30’s we enjoyed our swims from Calista in the anchorage .
One evening we went for a walk along the beachfront just before sunset.
The beach consisted of large pebbles and even with shoes on, it was rather uncomfortable to walk on and was slow going as the pebble layers were quite deep and moved underfoot.
There were also several tavernas along the beach but we didn’t eat at any of the them as we found in the evenings, it tended to get abit breezy and cool coming off the water.
After four great days in Kokkari, it was time to move as the weather was changing, and the the harbour would no longer be protected from the northerly wind and swells. We motored a short distance around past Vathy, the main Port of Samos and anchored in a secluded bay of Galazio for the evening.
It was a pretty bay, though there was alot of debri on the sea floor close to the shore.
Leaving Galazio we motored around to Kerveli for a couple of nights.
We went for a kayak around the bay and checked out the hotel from the water. Sabine & Uli’s son and partner are coming out to Samos in a few week’s time to stay in the hotel. The hotel looks very nice set in amongst the cypress trees.
We hadn’t realised at the time when we dropped the anchor in a sandy patch, that there were rocks nearby. They were only discovered when Paul was snorkling the next day and from flying the drone. The following morning we had several attempts to retrieve our anchor as the chain had intertwined in between the huge rocks.
Luck was with us, patience had prevailed, and with use of the bowthruster we managed to retrieve the chain which was intertwined around the rocks and after several minutes lifted the anchor from the sand and then left the anchorage to go around to Posidonio. Phew, what a relief.
We had anchored in Posidonio last season so we knew the anchorage well. While we were ashore at one of the local taverna’s the Police arrived carrying a large tape measure and started measuring up the beach front where the sunbeds were. Next, they came into the taverna advising of a fine and asked the owner to remove their sunbeds and umbrellas as they didn’t have a licence to occupy. The taverna was forced to close for the rest of the day as punishment. (We had been looking forward to dining there that evening) The Government is currently clamping down on taverna’s with their sunbeds taking up the beach areas and the locals not being able to access and are complaining to the authorities.
This visit, we decided to walk up to the Church that overlooks the anchorage.
After a couple of days we moved on to Psili Ammos
Psili Amos has a fine sandy beach on the southern side of Samos Island. The beach is very shallow for quite some distance out. We anchored in about 4 metres and the water was very clear.
The following morning we went ashore for a coffee and walk about the beach.
It was still early, but some of the locals were starting to arrive and claim a sunbed for the day. The showers in the form of a beer bottle was interesting.
Later that morning our friends on Tipheret lifted anchor and were heading further west to Marathokampos Marina for a few days to install their new ultra anchor and chain, while we were going into Pythagorion Port and hopefully checking out to go across to Turkey.
Pythagorio Village is a historical town and is now a major tourist resort. It owes it’s name to the famous philosopher and scientist Pythagoras. Old and well preserved houses with red tiled roofs, narrow alleys, restaurants and tavernas make it a lively and charming place.
Calista was in a prime position on the town quay where the main road/pedestrians entered the Port.
We enjoyed some lamb chops one evening and they were very succulent and tasty. Still can’t beat the New Zeland lamb though.
We checked in with the Port Police to get our transit log stamped in, then walked over to the other office of the Port Police (Passport Control) to advise our intentions of wanting to check out of Greece the following day to go to Turkey for a month or so. Once the Officer saw our passports with our entry date into Greece, he said we had overstayed our allowed 90 days in Greece under Schengen rules, and if we went to Turkey we wouldn’t be allowed back into Greece for a period of six months. He would also have to issue us with a fine of 600 euros each for overstaying up to 30 days over our allowed time. Wow, that was quite unexpected. The Customs office have previously allowed us six months in Greece and dont seem too bothered with the 90 day Schengan rule, as they are more focussed on tax status and liability only. The Passport Control Officer suggested we stay in Greece and said (“he hasn’t seen our passorts“) wink, wink and suggested we could take our chance on whether we got picked up by Passport Control at Athens airport, but to be aware that the fine could increase to 1200 euros each once we went past 30 days overstay if we were caught.
We left the Port Police Office to seek out somewhere to have a strong drink while we discussed our dilemma.
We decided to take our chance and stay in Greece, as our liftout of Calista and flights back to NZ were already prebooked out of Athens, so we will wait and see when we we fly out of Athens if Passport Control there fine us for overstaying or not.
We left the harbour the following day to start making our way back through the Dodecanese and Cyclades to our final destination of Kilada.
