Sailing Calista15 July 2023 – 20 July 2023
We arose early before day break and left the anchorage to catch the wind that was forecast.
We ended up motoring till we had cleared the headland of Mount Athos then we caught the wind, furling out the main and genoa we enjoyed a pleasant sail getting along at 6 – 8 knots with 20kts of wind.
Mid afternoon we arrived at Limnos Island, which is an Eastern Aegean Island. Due to it’s large distance from Athens, the island has been spared from mass tourism. We arrived in a large sandy bay of Nea Koutali where it was blowing 20 kts over the hills. It was sunny and was still pleasant being on anchor.
I got very little sleep at night with the sound of the wind whistling through the rigging, something I don’t really enjoy.
We stayed onboard Calista while it was blowing, finding plenty of boat jobs to do and updating the website. Swimming was challenging with the strong wind on the surface and we had to keep close to the swimming ladder.
The chap from the beach bar came out on his jetski and offered to bring us anything from the menu if we wanted to. We were self sufficient and resisted the temptation of bar food, thou Sabine and Uli ventured ashore to take the dogs for a walk and had a bite to eat at the beach bar.
After three days the wind had subsided and it was time to leave the anchorage. Tipheret got away before us, so we let them be ahead for a change, we had a gentle sail down the coast to Myrina Harbour.
Myrina is the capital and main port of Limnos, named after the wife of the first King of the island, Thoas.
The following morning we dingied into the small fishing port where we left the dingy tied up to the town quay and went in search of the Port Police to get our transit log stamped in. Around the Port and town there were many decorative water fountains with drinkable water. Many people come and fill up their containers.
Along the beach front there were some signage boards discribing outdoor games that we used to play back in our childhood days. It brought back many memories of fun times playing outdoors. No TV or computers back then.
It was hot so we sat under the shade of the trees and rested for awhile and admired Calista out in the anchorage.
Once rested, we set off through the pretty township in search of somewhere to stop for lunch.
On the other side of the town there was another bay which we thought we would check out.
There were quite a few restaurants along the waterfront with views of the Byzantine Castle of Myrina from a different angle.
We enjoyed a refreshing glass of Gin & Tonic and some lunch.
My Super Bowl was very interesting – quinoa, corn, sherry tomatoes, strawberries, sauted shrimps and avocado dressing. Yum.
From the restaurant we decided to walk back to the anchorage over the lower part of the hill.
Along the way, we came across signage indicating the way up to the Byzantine Castle of Myrina so we thought it was a good time as any, to climb up to the Castle. Not really a bright idea, after just having had lunch and a wine, and it was also very hot.
The path was paved and was easy going so it wasn’t too bad. We reached the entrance and paused to rest in the shade before continuing on.
The Castle was built in the early 12 century AD and covers an area of 144 acres. Originally commissioned by the Byzantine Emperor Andronicus Komnenos in 1186 AD. The castle was later expanded by the Venetians during the 13th century.
On the far side was amazing views down onto several bays.
Looking down on the entrance into the harbour of Myrina where we sailed in through the entrance before dropping our sails.
From the top there were good views down into the anchorage and town quay below.
Yay, we made it up to the very top.
Sabine and Uli hired a car for two days and we both took turns to use the car to tour around the island while the other couple stayed and kept an eye on the boat/s.
On the day it was our turn, we got away early fairly early in the morning and headed off in the direction of where the Limnos Centotaph is located near the coast.
The countryside was pretty barren and very dry. The secondary roads were mostly dirt and gravel roads.
After the October Revolution the Cossacks were forced to leave Russia. About 5000 Cossacks landed on Limnos Island. Hunger and infectious diseases decimated the Cossacks and the rest of their fellow people built in their honour a Cenotaph (also known as a Kolouro) At the top of the pyramid a white marble cross was placed.
Paul couldn’t resist climbing up to the top. It didn’t look very high …
It took Paul awhile to have the courage to stand up as it was blowing a gale and felt abit unsteady. It was a strange uneasy feeling being on top of the pyramid with the wind blowing.
I chose to stay on the ground.
We walked across a narrow concrete causeway to check out the quaint Agios Nikolaos Church on it’s own little island.
We stopped at Nea Koutali town for morning tea, crepes and pancakes.
We drove past the Air Force Base and one of the hangers was disguised to make it blend into the surroundings. On the day we were driving around there was a large presence of army vehicles and jet fighters screaming overhead in the skies.
We drove out to the Geological Park located in the northern part of Lemnos Island, close to the village of Propouli.
As we were driving along we encountered a flock of goats wandering around on the road and as we slowly inched forward, they turned around and scurried away into the scrub.
The Geological Park landscape is of various golden yellow rock formations in various shapes and sizes.
Scientists believe that these formations are the result of running hot lava flowing from volcanoes that were active on the island thousands of years ago. When the lava came in contact with the water of the sea, it cooled down and formed these strange and impressive formations.
The locals call these peculiar rock formations Faraklo or Fragokefala.
We stopped off at the petrol station to top up the tank just above the empty mark before returning the car back to the rental car company that evening. Here, and on most of the islands we find that the rental company provides the car practically empty and you are expected to return it empty. Quite hard to gauge as we normally return the car with more petrol than when we got it, so it is a gain for the rental company.
For our last evening on the island we dined at a restaurant on the other side of town that came highly recommended by a chap from a tour boat on the town quay. We ordered linquine pasta with shrimps (pasta locally produced on the island) and it was devine.
The next morning we returned to the Port Police and got stamped out as we were leaving to head down to Ag Efstratios Island that afternoon on our way to Lesvos Island.
