Saronic Gulf and Islands

7 July 2022 – 25 July 2022

From Ermioni we were heading up in the direction of Poros. We stopped off at Dokos Island where we anchored in the bay for morning tea. After our morning coffee we lifted anchor and had a pleasant sail up around to Poros.

Instead of heading into the harbour of Poros we anchored in a lovely bay of Ormos Porou with just one other yacht.

From the anchorage we were able to see the tiny canal which the fisherman use to navigate through between the harbour and greater gulf.

We decided to take the dingy through the canal and dine at one of the local restaurants. Transitting the narrow canal, it was necessary to duck our heads down when we were going underneath the roadway to avoid contact with the pipes and concrete beams.

Once we were safely through the canal, we were in the harbour. We dingied over to “Spyros Theano” situated on the water’s edge near where all the various fishing boats were moored.

We tied the dingy up on the pontoon outside of the restuarant and clamboured onto pontoon which was somewhat unstable.

The following morning we dingied through the canal again this time leaving the dingy tied up on the town quay where we then set off on foot to explore the town.

There were a large number of restaurants and tourist shops along the water front. We went in search of a chandlery store and found one where we bought a new snubber hook for our anchor bridle.

Wandering through the back streets of town we admired the big old beautiful flourishing bougenvillias.

After getting lost in the back streets, a local pointed us in the right direction and we climbed up to the Clock Tower to take in the views of the harbour.

The Clock Tower was built in 1927.

The views over Poros Bay were well worth going up to see.

Back on the waterfront we stopped for some lunch. I fell in love with the “Gyros”. Wraps filled with large pieces of grilled meat, onions, tomato, lettuce and fries, rolled in a pita. Yum.

After lunch we returned back to Calista, uplifted the anchor and motored around into the harbour.

We found a lovely anchorage not far from the town with several restaurants along the waterfront. During the day it was busy with day boaters and also a water skiing school.

We dingied around to the next anchorage, Russian Bay. It was mostly larger launches which were stern tied to the shore. There was a small island in the middle of the bay with a tiny Church.

We were joined a few days later by another Amel 50, Panta Rei which anchored near to us. It was lovely to finally meet the Owners and swap stories.

From our anchorage it was just a short dingy ride into the town quay.

After several days enjoying the tranquility of the anchorage we thought it was time to depart and explore some new islands. We bid farewell to our new friends on Panta Rei and headed over to Aegina Island.

Arriving on Aegina, we anchored in Perdika Engina Nord for the evening and dingied to shore to “Psarotaverna Aeginitissa”, a highly rated seafood restaurant.

We enjoyed an entree followed by a main of Red Grouper. The stray cats hanging about were hoping we would throw them some tit bits. They weren’t afraid and one tried several times to jump up onto the chair next to us.

As we like to eat early, we had an uninterrupted view of the setting sun before the locals started arriving shortly after.

When it came time to pay, the “Bill/Check” was somewhat of a surprise! We have learnt now to ask the cost of the fish before ordering in future. (it all depends on the weight)

The following morning we left the anchorage and had a brisk sail down to Korfos. Arriving in the anchorage we noticed our friends from Grace where also in the anchorage. We arranged to meet later and have dinner together.

We enjoyed a pleasant evening with our friends over a lovely dinner and a few drinks.

After several nights at Korfos we departed and headed back to Aegina Island.

This time we chose the anchorage just to the east of the harbour/town quay where we had arranged to meet our friends Matt & Cindy from Speed of Life another Amel 50. We had all been together for several months on the Amel pontune at La Rochelle during the Covid lockdown in 2020. It was lovely to catch up and spend time with them both again.

We dingied into the fishing harbour where we left our dingy, and proceeded to walk around the waterfront where we dined at “Flisvos” With our feet in the sand, we couldn’t get any closer to the water.

It was a delightful setting to watch the sun set and enjoy a lovely dinner with our friends.

The following morning we went and had a walk around town.

The Panagitsa Church just out of Aegina’s marina. Built in 1673 the domed basilica with vaulted arches remained in it’s original form until 1906 when it was rebuilt.

The Church was built using pouri, the soft local stone also used to build the Temple of Aphaia. The Government used the Church to house refugees seeking asylum in 1826.

There were a number of colourful fishing and day boats in the small fishing marina.

A street decorated with umbrellas of different colours hanging between the buildings and providing some shade from the hot sun.

Once we had finished walking around the town we finished back at beach restaurant for an enjoyable iced coffee.

Paloma, another Amel 50 was also in the area and joined Speed of Life and ourselves in the anchorage. Last time we saw them, was back in Zyanthos and they have been following a similar route as ourselves.

Before heading off we motored into the marina and arranged for the diesel tank to meet us. We filled up our tanks and took on board 320 litres.

The following day Speed of Life and ourselves, left the anchorage and we headed over to Aias on the mainland as Speed of Life were going into one of the marinas in Athens the following day.

Speed of Life and Calista in the anchorage, just the two of us. Paul and I went ashore for dinner. As soon as our food arrived, the wasps suddenly appeared and were such a nuisance.

Speed of Life departed the following morning and we were then joined by Paloma.

We left the anchorage the next morning and sailed down to Korfos. We had a head start of half an hour or so, but it wasn’t long before Paloma caught up to us. They were flying their stay sail also so they were gaining a little extra speed.

In Korfos we spent a couple of days then decided to leave and motor down to Epidaurus as the weather was looking very settled, no wind so that the sea state would be calm for visiting the Sunken City.

With the boats safely anchored Paul got the drone out to take a few aerial shots.

We gathered our snorkling gear and go pro and headed in the dingy to snorkle the ruins.

It was an unique experience to snorkle over the ancient city. The ancient ruins that are visible are the remains of a Roman villa from the 2nd century AD, and is at a depth of less than three metres. The waters are so clear that you can snorkle over the house foundations, potteries and floor sections.

After an enjoyable afternoon in the water snorkling over the ruins and swimming we all decided to go ashore for dinner at “Mouria”. Such a delightful restaurant overlooking the anchorage and set amongst trees and fairy lights.

The Little Theatre of Epidaurus as discovered in the early 1970’s under a field of olive trees and its restoration process continues today. It’s construction started in the 4th century BC. It hosts various dance and theatre performances and can seat around 2000 spectators. When we walked by, there were some people practising their lines.

After checking out the Little Theatre we followed a road hoping to get glimpes of the bay. Along the way Theo picked some oranges. They were sun kissed, warm and so juicy.

Us girls couldn’t resist checking out the market stalls, and to our surprise the boys bought some fresh honey and selection of liquers.

One evening we dined with our friends at “To Periovoli tis Gogos” nestled underneath the orange trees. A magical setting and the service and food was amazing.

We lifted anchor and set off to Agia on the eastern side of Egina, north of the marina and anchored in clear aqua blue waters where our friends on Paloma and Panta Rei joined us in the anchorange.

We were invited on board Panta Rei and had a lovely evening. There was plenty of food and wine during the evening and many laughs.

Homemade Gnocchi prepared by Raffaella was delicious.

We decided to hike up to the Temple of Aphaia by taking the most direct route. It was a steep 30 minute walk along rough roads and through forest. It was certainly worth the effort once we reached the Temple.

We were unable to fly the drone on site so Paul hid some distance down the road and put the drone in the air and flew close to the Temple.

The Temple of Aphaia has been dedicated to goddess Athena and is located on top of a hill on the island of Aegina.

It was built in 480 BC and 25 of the original 32 Doric columns still stand today due to the skill of the restorers.

Once back down into town we stopped off for some lunch and wine before taking the dingy back to Calista.

From Agia we left shortly after our lunch and motored up to Sounio a short distance away and found a spot to anchor in the crowed anchorage. Our friends on Paloma picked us up in their dingy and we went ashore, then proceeded to walk up to the Temple of to watch the sunset.

The Temple of Poseidon is perched 70 metres above the sea on the edge of a cliff. It was constructed between 444 and 440 BC featuring six doric columns on the front portico.