Sailing Calista20 May 2022 – 27 May 2022
With a favourable weather window forecast, we left the shores of Malta around 7.00pm on 20 May 2022 to embark on a two day passage to Zakynthos Island, Greece. Paul plotted the course which would take us directly to Ship Wreck Bay on the western tip of Zakynthos. We had done one night passages many times previously, so a two night passage was going to be somewhat of a challenge as we both needed to get a reasonable amount of sleep during the passage.
Still during daylight we encountered a fast ferry from Malta pass within 700m of us. Several hours into the passage and we were sailing along comfortably at around 5 knots with a wind of 12 kts. At around mid night we received a radio call from a cargo ship up ahead advising that they had no engine and were drifting and requested that we steer clear of them. We confirmed that we could see the ship on our radar and confirmed we would alter our course to pass well clear on his starboard side. The sea state was light and on our first evening we sailed averaging 6.7 knots with a steady breeze of 17 kts. Calista loves these conditions.
It didn’t take us long to get into a rythmn. After dinner we took turns to keep watch and carried out roughly 3 hourly shifts. On our second evening we were treated to a lovely sunset. We sailed for 23 hours being the majority of the first 24 hours then when the wind died out as forecasted we motorsailed the rest of the way. On the second afternoon we poled out the genoa to get that extra puff of wind in the sails.
At around 9.30pm we noticed that there was alot of sea fog forming along the coast as we were approaching Zakynthos. We spotted a Navy ship a few hundred meters further along the coast obviously checking us out. As we approached much closer to land we decided to enter Ship Wreck Bay even though it was now twilight and light was starting to fade quickly. With very limited visibility we cautiously motored into the bay while I went up onto the foreward deck to observe the bay and to see if there were any boats in the anchorage. Paul turned on the radar for additional guidance to also check out for obstacles and any other boats. With a sigh of relief there were no boats and we crept ever so slowly into the bay, and with the aid of the radar and depth sounder we found a sandy spot where we dropped the anchor in 11 metres depth.
We arrived in Greek Waters on 22 May 2022 after our passage of 50 hours, a total of 320nm.
Unfortunately there was a swell coming into the anchorage and it was like a giant washing machine. We were tossed from side to side all night and with the the boat squeaking under protest, we got very little sleep.
We awoke at day break to see fine mist circling around on top of the steep cliffs. It was a great feeling to wake and enjoy the sight of the famous ship wreck and being the only boat in the anchorage. After seeing the ship wreck on various U Tube Sailing channels over the years it felt somewhat surreal that we were actually there ourselves. At 7.30am a catamaran motored into the anchorage and dropped anchor on the opposite side of the bay. We watched the others prepare their dingy and go ashore. With quite a swell breaking onto the beach we decided it was too risky to take our tender ashore and decided we would inflate the kayak and paddle in instead.
From the rear transom we clambered aboard the kayak and proceeded to paddle to shore making a smooth disembark without getting the kayak swamped by the incoming waves. In our haste we had forgotten to wear any reef shoes and stepping onto the beach was a surprise, it wasn’t sand at all but hundreds of tiny pebbles. It was rather painful to walk on.
With very few people on the beach we were able to take in the sight of the ship wreck and take numerous photos without the usual crowds.
It was quite a surprise to see a Life Saver’s Watch Tower positioned on the beach directly in front of the ship wreck. Obviously during the summer months the anchorage would be extremely busy with people swimming amongst the boats.
By 8.30 ish tour boats of all sizes started arriving and depositing their passangers onto the beach in an orderly manner then going out into the bay where they would anchor and wait. The peacefullness of the anchorage was soon shattered by the arrival of noise of the boats with the Captains tooting their horns. Yachts of various sizes also started arriving into the anchorage.
The ship wreck was cautioned off by ropes on the ocean side so the public were unable to get up close on the port side of the ship.
After awhile we had seen quite enough and with very sore feet, we were grateful to embark back into the kayak without making a spectacle of ourselves and paddle back out to Calista. On the way out we passed a yacht called “Roam” whom we had met at Marina di Ragusa, Sicily over the winter season. They were just entering the bay and scoping out where to drop their anchor and we waved out to them as we went past.
With the sun trying hard to poke through the mist we sat and enjoyed a cup of coffee while watching the comings and goings in the anchorage.
Late morning we decided to lift anchor and motored out of the crowded anchorage to cruise up along the coast in search of a more sheltered anchorage for the evening.
We found a lovely protected bay called Makris Gialos for our second evening with only one other boat in the anchorage. The water was so clear and blue and we found the water temperature of 21 deg quite welcoming for a quick swim (the first of the season). Feeling refreshed we dingied to shore and tied up at the bottom of the steps that led up to the restaurants above. We dined at one of the taverna’s ‘Kiontiraki Fish’ which overlooked the anchorage. We enjoyed a lovely sea bream main, followed by a yummy dessert (which was on the house).
The following morning we left the anchorage and cruised on down to Zakynthos Township where the main port is situated on the North Eastern side of the island.
We decided to anchor outside of the town quay in the bay as the conditions were very calm and we had the bay all to ourselves.
Paul dropped me ashore in the dingy and I went in search of the supermarket and purchased a few groceries and also some Greek data sim cards. Paul in the meantime dingied around to the harbour to check out the town quay arrangements. Paul met some fellow boaties and got a contact name and phone number for one of the “Blue Shirts” who handle the docking and collecting fees on behalf of the Council.
The following morning we contacted Alex, from the Blue Shirts who said he would offer some assistance when we arrived at the town quay. We lifted anchor and motored around into the Port. With directions given by Alex via mobile phone we dropped our anchor at least 40 metres out from the town quay and reversed back into the allocated space on the quay. It was our first attempt using the anchor to go stern to a town Quay, and we felt rather chuffed with ourselves getting it right first time.
The Blue Shirts provided great assistance with directions and line handling and also offered to help with the check-in process if we required. We decided for the experience, to visit the Customs and make the necessary check in oursleves. With the relevent paperwork in hand, we headed into the local Custom’s Office just a few hundred feet away to check in and obtain our Transit Log which is required while cruising the Greek waters.
The ladies at the Custom’s Office were very helpful and completed the necessary paperwork and issued us with the Greek Transit Log.
With the initial paperwork now complete, we then had to walk around to the opposite side of the Port to check in with the Port Police to get the Transit Log stamped by them. Then it was a walk back to Customs to show that the Port Police had stamped the Transit Log. It was quite a rigmarole but we got to enjoy a walk along the promenade and check out some of the town along the way.
The following morning we decided to hike up to the small town of Bohali situated high above the main town. We eventually found the path at the rear of town and it was somewhat overgrown, having not being maintained for quite some time. We followed the path and at times it was waist high in grass. Nearing the top, the path weeved up and around the hillside to finish at the base of the Church.
We were hot and thirsty and we were grateful to find a table to sit at and get our breath back. The view was amazing so we decided to order a cool drink and some lunch. From the table at the restuarant the views looked back down over the township and town quay.
We enjoyed a wine with our lunch of meatballs and beetroot salad.
While being on the town quay we decided to top up the diesel tanks before heading off.
Alex, from The Blue Shirts arranged for the mini diesel tanker to arrive at an arranged time. With the small tanker double parked on the road the long hose easily reached the fuel cap on Calista and we took onboard 355 litres. Alex also took our two small gas bottles and delivered them down to the petrol station where they got refilled before returning them to us. We just had to walk down to the station and pay for the bottles. Nothing was a problem for Alex.
The following morning around 9.00am we untied the lines from the town quay and eased out into the harbour while winding up the anchor from the harbour sea floor. We motored out of the harbour and set our course to Kefalonia Island.
